Sewing and Embroidering of Knitted Garments by Adding Artificial Leather

Document Type : Original Article

Author

Assistant Professor, Department of Readymade Garments, Faculty of Applied Arts, Helwan University

Abstract

The aim of this research is to study the effect of the different seam and stitch types used in sewing knitted fabrics with artificial leather on the sewing quality and efficiency of knitted fabrics. Three different weights of knitted fabrics, which used in the production of garments, were used as follows:
• Interlock double face fabric with three different weights (178 g / m2, 196 g / m2 and 245 g / m2) were used.
• 100% cotton yarn was used for the face & 100% polyamide for the back no. (40/1 English & 78/24/1 denier) respectively.
• An artificial leather cloth was used. The face of the cloth is the artificial leather, while the back was single jersey structure of 100% polyester yarn.
• Four different seam types of the most common seams were used for sewing knitted fabrics with artificial leather:
1-   Seam type (1) is superimposed seam type (SSa) by using Stitch type 516 Over edge stitch which is strong and used heavily in sewing knitted fabrics.
2-   Seam type (2) is lapped seam type (LSb) by using two different stitch types (Stitch type 516 and Stitch type 301) which sewed on the surface of the artificial leather cloth to give aesthetic appearance to the cloth.
3-   Seam type (3) is lapped seam type (LSb) by using two different stitch types (Stitch type 516 and Stitch type 301) which sewed twice on the surface of the synthetic leather cloth also to give another aesthetic appearance to the cloth.
4-   Seam type (4) is flat seam type (FSa) by using the top and bottom cover stitch 605, which was sewed with another color of the basic cloth, it was a stitch used in the embroidery and decoration of clothing in order to give an aesthetic appearance for clothing.
• The following tests were performed: (seam thickness - seam stiffness – seam breaking force - seam appearance and seam pucker) In order to identify the effect of the different seam and stitch types used in sewing knitted fabrics with artificial leather on the sewing quality and efficiency of knitted fabrics.

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